Inna of TheWallInna and Leisa of A Challenging Sew are hosting a Little French Jacket sew along inspired by the classic Chanel Jacket. I immediately wanted to join in. In the last year I have started a few QAL’s that I haven’t finished and have tried to slow down and finish some things on my table. Even so, I knew I would give this one a try.
I knew I was drawn to the jacket but didn’t realize how many patterns I had. One in particular I have wanted to make is Claire Shaeffer’s Vogue 8804. (In the last couple years, I’ve gotten interested in couture techniques. Shaeffer’s patterns include a lot of couture information.)
I also have Vogue 7975. Marfy has some really nice looking patterns that I would like to try as well.
This past weekend I worked on my first muslin. It is cut out on a size 20, with the shoulders and arms cut on a 16. I didn’t try to work in a FBA yet, and I’m glad I didn’t. The fit is much better than I expected it to be, but there is still some work to do.
The first issue is too much room at the high chest/neck. The bust points look a tad high and narrow, but the cross grain above the bust was much more level than I expected. The waist is rising a little, but it is very little. I’m going to take in the princess seam at the shoulder enough to take out the ‘ruffle’ I have going on in the high chest and neck. I think I will let out that seam a bit more at the bust.
I’m tempted to use hair canvas to reinforce that shoulder to chest to make up for the concave above the bust.
I have made no fitting adjustments to the waist or back and will save those after I fix the bust.
The back may have a little room, but not enough to complain about I think? The shoulder/arm shown here are the seam lines (I have the seam allowance ironed under) and I can’t decide if the shoulders are a little wide. I will shape the waist and will be able to see what else I need after fixing the front.
The sleeve on this pattern is a 3-piece sleeve and it’s sewn and ready to fit as well.
My first jacket will be out of this red boucle I have had in my stash for years. The color is an awesome red that I love. I’m shopping for lining and trim but a print silk charmeuse has been a challenge. I ordered this sample from NYFashionCenterFabrics.com that I like. It’s hard to see in this photo, but there are multi color threads running through the selvage. One is almost a periwinkle blue. I would like to use the selvage as part of the trim.
Whew! Windy post! Sorry about that. If you have any fitting tips and would like to share, I would love to hear your suggestions.
I can’t begin to tell you how many fitting books and articles I’ve read. Craftsy.com has quite a few fitting classes that I have taken as well. Even so, fitting myself is a real challenge. This is when you want a fitting buddy. Anyone in north Louisiana reading?? We need a sewing club. :-D
FYI: For anyone with fitting advice, this is what I’m trying to fit:
By the way, I have started a Pinterest board (actually two) for this jacket and for the fabric and trim. If you’re sewing along on this jacket and are posting your progress on your blog, Pinterest, Flickr, Instagram, etc, I would love to follow along with you. Leave a comment with your info. Have fun!