Full Bust Adjustment

Red pin marks dart point.

I have a difficult time sewing tops and dresses due to full bust adjustments.  I never seem to get them right.  I will be attempting to draft a pattern from this blouse that is a decent fit.  It needs more ease in the bust and I feel the slanted darts coming from the princess seams are set a little high for me.  I worry that lowering them will cause them to APPEAR too low.  I considered removing the darts, but feel they help with the fit at the waist.

It’s difficult to see, but I’ve marked the dart point with a red pin here.  The measuring tape is starting at the yoke and not at the top of the shoulder…easier for me to adjust front piece that way.

If you have any suggestions or tips, I would love for you to share.

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2 thoughts on “Full Bust Adjustment

  1. Hi, I have a very similar problem. This is usually the point where I decide to go on another massive diet except the last place I lose fat is my boobs and the first place seems to be my face. I reckon if my face is looking like a whizzened prune then no one cares about how my bust fits my shirt!!!
    However, that doesn’t help the fitting problem. Personally I’m not a fan of the little dart. I think the apex of the princess seam needs to move a little more toward the centre and then curve back to where it is at the waistline. That may also enhance the waist as a bonus? One of my fitting books shows how if you sliced the area around the apex apart and put a temporary piece of fabric under the slash you could redraw the curve using the extra fabric. Sounds dire, but maybe worth a try on a muslin?
    Myself, I think I’m off to invest in a professionally made pattern – about $100 AUD. I had a halter dress pattern made for me in the past by a patternmaker and the shape was wonderful. What a difference the fit makes. I wore a shirt the other day that has more stretch than at first apparent, so it really fits under my bust. My friend asked if I’d had a boob job! Note to self, wear this shirt more often!

    1. LOL. I love your reply. YOU GET IT! If I found a pattern maker to draft a basic shirt pattern, it would be worth the $100! Thanks so much for the tip and encouragement.

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