Latest on the Little French Jacket

My grandsons have been keeping me busy this week and I haven’t been able to work on my LFJ muslin.  I’ve been trying to shop for trim and play with design instead.  There is no really good resource for trim here and I really hate to order online since trim can look so different once it is in.  This is what I have come up with so far locally.

LBJ Navy Trim Collage

The first is a light brown gimp that’s laid on a gray rickrack ribbon.  The choices on the right are two identical trim, one in silver and one in a silver/gold mix.  Of the two I’m leaning toward the silver and gold.  It appears very gold in this photo, but I think in person the mix comes thru better and picks up the two tone on the buttons.  The silver is a little bright on that navy…not bad, but it would have to be a deliberate choice.

And I’m still trying to find a good fitting muslin.  I’m cutting out the Vogue 7975, which so many are using, and another Marfy 2252.  I’m paying more attention to bust, shoulder and chest measurements and comparing to pattern pieces.

The Marfy 2252 came with the 2010 catalogue and has princess seems like the French jacket.  It does appear to be built for shoulder pads, so I will be taking that into account and altering that out.


Fitting Pattern CollageOn the left is the Marfy front.  You may be able to see my alterations.  I’ve redrawn the bust to add approximately 3/4″ and vertically sliced the pattern to the right of the grain line and added about 3/4″ there as well.

On the right is the Vogue 7975.  The bust measurements are okay which means the shoulders are going to be too large.  You can see that I have moved that shoulder line in to allow that seam to create a dart.  The double lines you are seeing are the seam line which I have marked and the patterns cut lines.  While I learned to sew using the cut line and sewed that way for decades, I have really grown to enjoy   working from the seam line instead.  I have found I have much better results with seams coming together.

I’ve taken the day off today and Monday and will be working again on those muslins.  I’m really ready to start working with the fabric.

More to come.

(Hashtag for this sew along is #LittleFrenchJacketSewAlong)